Home' Advocate Communications : Fiordland Advocate 28 August 2014 Contents WHAT’S COOKING
Page 8 | 28 August, 2014
Have you ever wondered how
meat cuts acquired their names?
These vary from country to country, and in some cases, region to region.
Some are confusing and controversial.
Take the porterhouse. According to one story, these steaks were named
after Porter Houses (inns selling porter and food) along early American
coach routes. Another is that a Massachusetts hotel and restaurant
proprietor – named Zachariah B. Porter – lent his name to the cut of
beef. However it was named, the porterhouse is the portion of the
sirloin on the opposite side of the bone to the fillet – and is often called
sirloin steak. Confused?
Chateaubriand steak, a thick cut from the tenderloin, allegedly takes
its name from the first diner to enjoy it, Vicomte Francois-Rene de
Chateubriand (1768-1848). Chateaubriand was a writer, ambassador
and foodie, and when his personal chef whipped up a very large
peppered beef tenderloin topped with a buttery wine-and-shallot sauce,
a new meat sensation was born.
And how confusing is this? A pork butt comes from the front of a pig
(the shoulder), not the end the name suggests.
Schnitzel is another cut over which there is conflict of ownership.
Schnitzel has become an all-encompassing word for thin slices of any
meat. However, it was the Wienerschnitzel ‘a scaloppine of veal from
Vienna’ that made the schnitzel famous on international menus. Vienna
State archives contain a report that during the 1857 military campaign
in Italy, a dish from Milan – the scaloppine alla Milanese – was praised
by an Austrian general. It became so appreciated it was finally claimed
by the Austrians as their own. However, further research finds it was the
Spanish troops that exported the dish to Italy – named a ‘costeletta in
the Spanish manner’.
Schnitzels – pork, veal, lamb, beef or chicken – are versatile. Not only
can they be cooked as scaloppine of any size, they can be stuffed,
rolled and casseroled or julienned and stir-fried. Just be careful not to
Steak: 2 porterhouse steaks, about
350g in total
2 cloves garlic, crushed
freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons butter for cooking
Béarnaise Sauce: 3⁄4 cup dry white
1 tablespoon tarragon or cider
1 small shallot, finely diced
1⁄2 teaspoon dried tarragon
2 teaspoon finely chopped parsley
1 teaspoon freshly ground black
2 large egg yolks
100g butter, melted
Rub the steaks with the crushed
garlic. Sprinkle generously all over
with black pepper.
Stand in a cool place while
preparing the sauce.
Combine the wine, vinegar, shallot,
parsley and black pepper in a
Simmer until reduced by two-
thirds. Cool then strain.
Whisk the egg yolks in the top
part of a double boiler. Place over
barely simmering water. Whisk in
the strained wine. Slowly whisk in
the butter until light and fluffy.
To cook the steak, melt the 2
tablespoons of butter in a heavy
frying pan. Cook the steaks
about 3-4 minutes each side for
Rest for a few minutes before
Top each steak with a little
Béarnaise and serve the
remainder on the side. Serves 2.
Porterhouse with Traditional
Porterhouse with Traditional Béarnaise Sauce
Sauce: 1⁄2 cup chicken stock
1 tablespoon each: sugar, finely
grated root ginger, Worcestershire
2 tablespoons each: soy sauce, rice
2 teaspoons cornflour
1 teaspoon sesame oil
2-3 teaspoons chilli paste
1 shallot, finely diced
2 large cloves garlic, crushed
Stir-fry: 400g skinned and boned
chicken, thinly sliced into strips
1 each: onion, green and red
capsicums, thinly sliced
100g snow peas, trimmed
1-2 tablespoons rice bran oil
coarsely ground Szechwan pepper
or black pepper to taste
Combine all the ingredients for the
sauce and place aside.
Prepare the ingredients for the
stir-fry. Heat the oil in a large wok.
Stir-fry the vegetables, until crisp-
tender. Place aside.
Stir-fry the chicken until just
cooked, about 3 minutes. Return
the vegetables to the pan.
Whisk the sauce, then stir into the
wok, until thickened.
Serve topped with pepper and
serve with rice.
Szechwan Stir-Fried Chicken
1 tablespoon each: orange juice,
soy sauce, cornflour
1 teaspoon each: sugar, chilli oil
400g pork schnitzel, thinly sliced
1-2 tablespoons canola oil
4 cups cooked long grain rice
(about 11⁄2 cups raw)
2 cups finely sliced spinach
1⁄2 cup toasted cashew nuts
2 spring onions, diagonally sliced
Combine the orange juice,
soy sauce, cornflour, sugar and
Place the pork in a plastic bag.
Add the soy mixture and move
the meat around so it is evenly
Refrigerate for at least 30
Heat half the oil in a wok on high.
Stir-fry the meat until cooked,
about 2-3 minutes.
Remove to a plate.
Wipe the wok clean. Add the
remaining oil to the wok.
Add the rice and stir-fry for 2
minutes, until all the grains are
Add the spinach, meat, nuts and
spring onions and cook long
enough to heat through.
Serve immediately. Great
garnished with pickled ginger.
Stir-fried Pork, Rice and Cashews
Lamb: 4 lamb leg steaks, about
2 tablespoons each: white wine,
3 cloves garlic, crushed
2-3 teaspoons lemon pepper
spray oil for cooking
Caper Sauce: 25g butter
2 tablespoons flour
1 cup chicken or lamb stock
2 tablespoon lemon juice
2 teaspoons caper, rinsed and
1 large egg yolk, lightly whisked
Snip the edges of the steaks to
prevent curling during cooking.
Place in a plastic bag with the
wine, oil and garlic. Move the
steaks around so they are well
Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes
Meanwhile, prepare the sauce.
Melt the butter in a small
saucepan. Stir in the flour. Slowly
whisk in the stock, stirring until
thickened. Add the lemon juice
and capers and heat through.
Slowly stir the egg yolk into the
To cook the lamb, remove from
the marinade and pat dry. Ensure
the lamb is at room temperature.
Spray a frying pan or grill with oil.
Cook 2-3 minutes each side, until
just pink inside. Serve drizzled
with the sauce. Serves 4.
Lamb Steaks with Caper Sauce
This sauce is also great with pork and lamb. Schnitzels sliced into strips
are perfect for stir-frying.
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